Step-by-Step Guide to Installing Checkerboard Tile Floors

Checkerboard tile floors… wow, just the thought of it takes me back to one of my favorite DIY projects. There’s something timeless yet bold about a checkerboard floor, right? It’s like stepping back into an old diner or a stylish European café, but with a modern twist. When I decided to install checkerboard tiles in my kitchen, I had no idea what I was getting into. Spoiler alert: it was totally worth it. So, if you’re ready to take on this project, I’m here to guide you through every step—mistakes and all!

Let me tell you, if I can do this, you can too. I had never tiled a floor before, and the checkerboard pattern seemed intimidating at first. But with a bit of planning, patience, and the right tools, I ended up with a floor that’s still one of the highlights of my home. Here’s exactly how I did it, and how you can too.

1. Planning the Layout: Don’t Skip This Step!

Before you even think about laying down a single tile, you need to plan your layout. Trust me on this one. When I first started, I thought, “Eh, I’ll just start in one corner and work my way out.” Bad idea. I ended up with uneven tiles along the walls, and the pattern didn’t line up the way I wanted. So I had to pull a few tiles up and start over.

What I learned? Start by finding the center point of the room. You want the checkerboard pattern to be centered so it looks balanced. Measure your room to find the midpoint of each wall, then use a chalk line to create two intersecting lines that divide the room into four equal sections. This is where you’ll start laying your tiles.

Also, make sure to dry fit the tiles first. I cannot stress this enough. Lay out a few rows without adhesive to see how the pattern will look and adjust as needed. It might seem like extra work, but it’ll save you a ton of headaches later.

2. Choosing the Right Tiles: Classic or Creative?

Here’s the fun part—choosing your tiles! The traditional checkerboard floor is black and white, and that’s the route I went with because I wanted that classic look. But let me tell you, there are so many options out there. I’ve seen people use dark green and white, navy and cream, even subtle shades of gray for a softer effect. It’s totally up to you and your style.

One thing I learned from my project: not all tiles are created equal. I originally bought some cheap tiles, thinking I’d save money, but they were a nightmare to cut, and a few of them chipped during installation. I ended up returning them and going for a better quality porcelain tile. It was a bit more expensive, but the difference in durability and ease of use was worth every penny.

If I were to give one tip here, it’s to invest in high-quality tiles. They’ll last longer, be easier to work with, and give you that clean, polished finish you’re aiming for.

3. Prepping the Subfloor: Set Yourself Up for Success

Now, before you even think about setting those tiles, you’ve got to make sure your subfloor is ready. I skipped a few corners here when I first started (rookie mistake!), thinking my subfloor was “good enough.” Wrong. After a few weeks, I noticed a couple of tiles were loose because the subfloor wasn’t level. Trust me, you don’t want to deal with that.

Start by cleaning the subfloor thoroughly—vacuum up any dust, dirt, or debris. Then, check for any uneven spots. If your subfloor isn’t perfectly level, you’ll need to use a self-leveling compound. I had a few low spots in my kitchen that I filled in, and it made a huge difference in how smoothly the tile installation went.

If you’re working with a wooden subfloor, you’ll also need to lay down a cement backer board. This creates a stable surface for the tiles and prevents any movement that could lead to cracking later on. I used a 1/4-inch thick backer board, screwed it down every few inches, and taped the seams with mesh tape. It sounds like a lot of prep, but once you get into the rhythm of it, it’s not bad at all.

4. Spreading the Adhesive: The Key to a Smooth Install

Now, it’s go-time. Time to start laying those tiles! But first, you need to spread your tile adhesive (also known as thin-set). I’ll be honest—this part can get a bit messy. The first time I did this, I didn’t spread the adhesive evenly, and some of the tiles ended up sitting at slightly different heights. It was subtle, but noticeable enough to bug me.

The trick is to use a notched trowel to spread the adhesive. The notches help create grooves in the adhesive, which makes the tiles stick better. I started by working in small sections, spreading just enough adhesive for 3-4 tiles at a time. This way, the adhesive didn’t dry out before I had a chance to set the tiles.

Pro tip: Don’t rush this step! Take your time to spread the adhesive evenly, and don’t put down too much at once. If you do, you’ll end up with a mess, and trying to clean adhesive out of grout lines is a nightmare (been there, done that).

5. Setting the Tiles: Precision Matters

Here’s where the real magic happens—laying down those beautiful tiles. Since you’ve already found the center of the room, start there and work your way out. I started with a black tile at the center and placed the white tile next to it, alternating to create the checkerboard pattern.

To keep the pattern straight, I used tile spacers. These little plastic crosses were a lifesaver—they ensured that my tiles were evenly spaced and the grout lines stayed consistent. I used 1/8-inch spacers, but you can go wider if you want more defined grout lines.

If you’re working with a pattern like checkerboard, precision is key. One small shift, and the whole pattern can start to look off. I made sure to check my progress regularly with a level to make sure everything was even.

Here’s a little trick I wish I’d known from the start: work slowly. It’s tempting to slap down tile after tile, but if you rush, you’ll end up with uneven lines or worse—crooked tiles. Take the time to step back every few rows and admire your work. It helps to see the pattern from a distance, so you can catch any mistakes early.

6. Cutting Edge Tiles: No Fear of the Tile Saw

I was terrified of using a tile saw at first. I’m not going to lie, the idea of cutting tiles perfectly to fit around the edges of the room sounded like something only a pro could do. But after a little practice, I got the hang of it, and now it’s one of my favorite parts of the process.

You’ll definitely need a wet saw to cut your tiles, especially for tricky spots like corners or around doorways. I had to cut a lot of tiles for the edges of my kitchen, and I learned to go slow and steady with the saw. It’s not as scary as it looks—just make sure to measure carefully, mark your cuts, and double-check before cutting.

One thing I did that saved me a ton of frustration: I cut all my edge pieces before laying them down. That way, once I got to the edges, I could just place the pre-cut tiles without stopping to measure and cut every few minutes.

7. Grouting the Gaps: The Finishing Touch

Once all the tiles are set and the adhesive has dried (I let mine sit overnight just to be safe), it’s time for grouting. I thought this would be the easy part, but man, it can get messy if you’re not careful. The first time I grouted a floor, I didn’t wipe off the excess quickly enough, and the grout started to harden on the tiles. Scrubbing it off was not fun.

Here’s what I do now: use a rubber float to spread the grout, making sure to press it into all the gaps between the tiles. Then, immediately wipe off the excess with a damp sponge. Don’t wait too long to wipe—grout dries quickly, and you don’t want to be stuck scrubbing hardened grout off your beautiful tiles.

Pro tip: After the grout has dried, go over the tiles with a soft cloth to buff away any haze left behind. It’s a little detail, but it makes a big difference in how clean and shiny the tiles look.